I collected the above footage with the intention of comparing different physical and mental approaches to routes. The first film shows four attempts at the same problem. I found it fascinating to see how each person tackled the problem in a slightly different way.
Top left- Jon, the tallest of the four subjects, uses small bursts of energy and controlled strength.
Top right- Luke, the shortest of the four subjects, has to use more strength and physical power in order to achieve the height needed. By far takes the longest time to complete the route appears to think about each move in detail before attempting it.
Bottom left- Sam, the fastest to complete the route. Not much technique or thought process however an obvious drive to get from A to B. Spends no time planning his next move he simply moves using strength.
Bottom right- Paddy, By far the most controlled ascent. Very specific busts of energy when needed allowing him to reserve energy and strength for the more technical moves. Appears to think about each move, positioning his body and pointing his toes in order to achieve balance.
In the video below I filmed myself along with two others tackling another route. I layered the three attempts in order to visualize a direct comparison. One out of the three of us completed the route and although the footage is blurred you can just about distinguish the two moves that paddy achieved that
caught the two of us out.
The main reason why two of us didn't complete the climb was due to our lack of mental control. For me there was a point where the fear of not completing the move successfully and potentially falling overtook the confidence in my ability. Proving that it is in fact the fear of failure that causes failure.